Over the last decade or so, consumers have become well informed and educated about skincare products and their ingredients. We particularly learned a lot about active ingredients, their functions, their concentration and how we should incorporate them into our skincare routines.
Niaciamide is one of the most popular active ingredients. It’s been used a lot in skincare formulas and it’s been discussed a lot by beauty influencers and skincare consumers. It is versatile and can address a range of skin issues. In fact, if you had to choose just one active ingredient for your skin care routine, niacinamide would be a great choice.
So, what exactly is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide is the active form of niacin, also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinic acid. When we consume foods rich in niacin, like animal liver or mushrooms, our bodies convert it to active Niacinamide. This, in turn, produces co-enzymes NADH and NADPH, which then stimulate cellular metabolism and provide energy for various functions. These co-enzymes are involved in over 40 biochemical processes in the body, including DNA repair.
Niacinamide is water-soluble and insoluble in oil. The Niacinamide extracts we commonly see are water-based, making them ideal for people who don’t like oily products or whose skin reacts poorly to them. Additionally, Nacinamide is gentle and won’t cause skin irritation or sensitivity like AHA, BHA, vitamin C, or Retinoic acid, because it is highly stable and has a nearly neutral pH. But Niacinamide is highly penetrative and can be applied topically to the skin, without relying on diet or supplements for absorption.
How does Niacinamide help our skin?
01 Fighting Free Radicals
Niacinamide is as effective as Vitamin C in fighting free radicals. In fact, it has some advantages over Vitamin C, such as being a lighter, longer-lasting, and milder form. It increases the antioxidant capacity of the skin after topical application.
02 Brightening and Spot Removal
Niacinamide can help alleviate or even eliminate various types of hyperpigmentation, such as acne scars, melasma, sun spots, and age spots. It works by suppressing the appearance of melanin vesicles in the skin’s surface cells. A study found a significant reduction in hyperpigmentation after just four weeks of continuous use at a 2% concentration of niacinamide. Another study found that 4% niacinamide was more effective in removing melasma than hydroquinone, a powerful but potentially harmful whitening ingredient.
03 Anti-aging and Anti-wrinkle
Niacinamide can also be used for anti-aging. It increases collagen in the skin and maintains its vitality, making the skin fuller and more elastic. It also inhibits protein glycation, reducing stiff cross-collagen and elastin molecules in the skin, and alters the viscoelasticity of the skin. Two studies using 4% niacinamide found significant improvement in wrinkles and fine lines, and a reduction in eye wrinkles with eight weeks of continuous use.
04 Oil Control for Acne
Niacinamide’s anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties make it effective for treating acnes. It can safely relieve mild or even moderate acne, without creating resistance, as commonly seen with other treatments like retinoic acid and benzoyl peroxide. Niacinamide can also be used on non-acne-prone oily skin to reduce oil production, and it takes only two to four weeks to show results.
05 Reducing the appearance of pores
While some people believe that it’s impossible to reduce the size of pores, niacinamide has been shown to have a role in achieving this. As previously mentioned, niacinamide can help reduce sebum production, which can contribute to larger-looking pores. By reducing the amount of oil on the skin, the appearance of pores can be minimized, resulting in softer and smoother skin. This theory is also supported by scientific studies. For instance, a 12-week study published in Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice found that both niacinamide and salicylic acid were effective in reducing pore size and improving the unevenness of the skin.
06 Restoring the skin barrier
If your skin is sensitive and experiences tingling sensations when you use skincare products, it may be a sign that your skin barrier has been damaged. This can be caused by the use of overly concentrated or potent topical products such as prescription retinoids.
The skin barrier is filled with a whole system of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. When these components are intact, the skin barrier is healthy and functions properly. Niacinamide can help strengthen the skin barrier by increasing the production of these components. Even at a concentration of just 2%, niacinamide can boost the production of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides, reducing trans-epidermal water loss and increasing the water content in the outermost layer of the skin. This can also help improve skin sensitivity and redness. In fact, some studies have shown that 5% niacinamide can significantly improve redness and may be an effective treatment for rosacea.
07 Hydrating the skin
A study comparing 2% niacinamide to mineral oil found that niacinamide was better at reducing moisture loss and adding moisture to the skin’s outer layer. Another study found that applying niacinamide twice a day can help reduce the chance of skin inflammation, moisture loss, and increase the thickness of the outermost layer of the skin.
08 Brightening the complexion
Many factors such as prolonged screen exposure, late nights, and stress can cause skin to look dull and tired, making it appear aged. Niacinamide, a powerful antioxidant, can help address this issue. In fact, a study found that using 5% niacinamide twice a day can significantly brighten the complexion and reduce yellowing.
09 Protecting against UV damage
Niacinamide can also offer protection against the harmful effects of UV rays, acting as a complement to sunscreen products. Studies have shown that niacinamide can help repair DNA damage caused by exposure to UV rays. Additionally, it has been found to protect against the immunosuppressive effects of UVA and UVB, and may be effective in preventing skin cancer.
Side Effects of Niacinamide
One of the benefits of using niacinamide is its low risk of side effects. According to Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice, niacinamide can be applied topically in large doses without causing discomfort. This makes it a safe active ingredient, especially for pregnant or breastfeeding women, and a good substitute for retinoids or other acidic ingredients.
Most clinical studies have used concentrations of niacinamide between 2% and 5%, though higher concentrations of 10% or 12% are available. If you experience an allergic reaction to a product containing niacinamide, it is unlikely that niacinamide is the cause. In rare cases, too high a concentration of niacinamide may cause skin stinging or redness, but switching to a product with a lower concentration helps alleviate these symptoms.
Side Effects of Niacinamide
One of the benefits of using niacinamide is its low risk of side effects. According to Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice, niacinamide can be applied topically in large doses without causing discomfort. This makes it a safe active ingredient, especially for pregnant or breastfeeding women, and a good substitute for retinoids or other acidic ingredients.
Most clinical studies have used concentrations of niacinamide between 2% and 5%, though higher concentrations of 10% or 12% are available. If you experience an allergic reaction to a product containing niacinamide, it is unlikely that niacinamide is the cause. In rare cases, too high a concentration of niacinamide may cause skin stinging or redness, but switching to a product with a lower concentration helps alleviate these symptoms.
